Most oenophiles like myself will spend their whole lives familiarizing themselves with all the vineyards of Bordeaux and Burgundy, or learning the native Italian or Portuguese grape varieties. But stray just a little off the path and some of the less famous wine producing countries of Europe have a wealth of exciting wines to offer, with indigenous grape varieties, unique micro-climates and in many cases, hundreds of years of untouched tradition.
Problems with infrastructure, demands of the EU and major supermarkets insisting on importing only recognised varietals are just a few of the reasons many of the gems of Eastern and Central Europe remain hidden from all but the most vehement wine adventurer.
The rewards are there however, and a recent trip to that neck-of-the-woods allowed me the opportunity to taste some truly weird and wonderful things. Tasting notes will follow but first let's take a quick look at the countries I vinously visited on my tasting travels:
Bulgaria: Famous in the late 70's for it's Cabernet Sauignon, Bulgaria has consistently steered its wine production towards the export market. Local varieties such as Mavrud and Pamid can be hard to come by, although this does seem to be changing, with winemakers increasingly turning their attention to native grapes.
Croatia: An important wine producer and a treasure trove of illusive indigenous varieties. The north shares climate, soils and some grape varieties with north east Italy, while further south on the dalmatian coast and up the steep slopes around Dubrovnik, Crljenak Kastelanski and Plavac Mali produce dense and potent reds.
Georgia: Arguably the oldest wine producing region in the world. Archaeological evidence points to great reverence towards wine production 5,000 years ago. Pre-classical methods are still used in production, where wine is fermented in earthenware pots called kwevri which are buried in the ground. A major blow was dealt to the industry in 2006 when the Kremlin banned all Georgian wine imports.
Hungary: The legendary Tokaji aside, Hungary has much to offer - from golden spicy whites to full bodied 'Bulls-blood' reds. The majority of wine is produced on the great plain between the Danube and Tisza rivers, with Eger, Villany and Sopron also contributing.
Poland: Polish wine has a way to go, but interesting work is being done with Hybrids - varieties native to Canada are important due to their ability to withstand harsh winters. Close to the German border to the west of Wroclaw, and the Podkarpacki region to the southeast of the country offer occasional micro-climates suitable for fresh, acidic whites and light reds.
Slovenia: Borders with Italy, Austria and Hungary suggest Slovenia to be a perfect location for wine production. Primorska, on the coast, shows wines similar to those of Friuli with aromatic dry whites and firm but fresh reds. The Podravje region is the most respected however, with Laski Rizling and Sipon producing very high quality wines.
An exciting journey I hope you'll agree. Coming up in Parts II & III - Guerrilla Wine Tours in Poland and Tasting Notes!
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