This little critter will grow up to spend most of his days rummaging his nose through wet, musty earth trying to find something special. This is not unpleasant for the Truffle Hog, in fact it's a process for which he has a natural affinity. The rewards, too, are plentiful. For when he finds that something special, it is not only worth the search, but it is a delicacy so uniquely flavoured and intense that it can be considered amongst the royalty of culinary delights.
A rare glimpse into the life of the humble Truffle Hog was granted to me recently when I stuck my nose into a glass of Tenuta Vitanza Brunello di Montalcino 2003.
Overwhelmed at first by the wet earthy, mushroom aromas, I almost had this one down as faulty. But I persisted. And I rummaged. And like our little piggy friend my snuffling through the earth and wood paid off - with a deep, intense (but delicate?) core of superb fruit character. Black cherries and redcurrants were there in abundance, but i really had to root them out, so layered were they beneath the earthiness and nutty oak characters.
The palate shared a similar format, this time tannin was first off the blocks. Big, bold, chalky tannin at that. Similar fruity flavours to those on the nose and a nice refreshing acidity balanced the tannin to some extent but it wasn't until I had tucked into some Italian food and my mouth had a good coating of olive oil that this wine really showed its true potential. It just went on and on, and every sip unveiled some new level of delight.
There was red and black berries, there was wet leaves, woodsmoke, leather, cherry compote, mushroom and vanilla.
The finish went on past dessert and into the future.
A true delicacy.
Deep, complex, lingering, and well worth the rummaging around on the forest floor.
Sniff some out if you can, you won't regret it!
